Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
